Denizel Kaynaklı Organizma Metabolitlerinin ve Su Ürünleri İşleme Yan Ürünlerinin Kozmetik/Kozmosötik Ürünlerde Kullanımı

Yazarlar

Gülsün Özyurt

Özet

Bu derleme, büyüyen küresel kozmetik ve kozmesötik pazarında doğal biyoaktif bileşenlere yönelik artan tüketici talebi doğrultusunda denizel organizmaların metabolitleri ile su ürünleri işleme yan ürünlerinin kullanımını detaylıca incelemektedir. Sığır ve domuz gibi karasal kaynaklı kollajenlerin taşıdığı deli dana benzeri bulaşıcı hastalık risklerinin aksine, mikro ve makroalgler, deniz bakterileri, mantarlar, denizanaları, köpekbalığı derisi ile işleme atıkları güvenilir ve yüksek biyolojik aktiviteye sahip alternatifler sunmaktadır. Bu denizel kaynaklardan elde edilen omega-3 ve omega-6 doymamış yağ asitleri, kitosan ve denizel kollajen cilde etkili nem desteği sağlarken; mikosporin benzeri amino asitler (MAA) ve karotenoidler ultraviyole radyasyonuna karşı güçlü foto-koruyucu koruma sağlamaktadır. Ayrıca, alg ve bakteri özütlerinde bulunan tirozinaz enzim inhibitörleri hiperpigmentasyonu önleyip cilt beyazlatıcı olarak kullanılırken; astaksantin, beta-karoten, hyaluronik asit, ekzopolisakkaritler (EPS), deniz çamuru ve somon enzimleri kırışıklık giderici, antioksidan ve hücresel yenileyici anti-aging etkileriyle öne çıkmaktadır. Bununla birlikte, bu moleküllerin ticarileşme sürecinde taksonomik teşhis güçlükleri, sürdürülebilir ham madde tedariki, ekolojik değişkenlikler ve yüksek üretim maliyetleri gibi teknik ve pazar kısıtları bulunmaktadır. Sonuç olarak, söz konusu engellerin aşılmasıyla denizel biyoaktif bileşenlerin ve atıkların geri kazanımının kozmetik endüstrisinin geleceğinde stratejik bir değer taşıdığı vurgulanmaktadır.

This review thoroughly examines the utilization of marine organism metabolites and seafood processing by-products in response to growing consumer demand for natural bioactive ingredients in the expanding global cosmetics and cosmeceuticals market. Unlike terrestrial collagen sources such as bovine and porcine, which carry risks of infectious diseases like mad cow disease, micro- and macroalgae, marine bacteria, fungi, jellyfish, shark skin, and processing wastes offer reliable alternatives with high biological activity. Omega-3 and omega-6 unsaturated fatty acids, chitosan, and marine collagen derived from these marine sources provide effective hydration; mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and carotenoids offer strong photoprotective defense against ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, tyrosinase enzyme inhibitors found in algal and bacterial extracts are utilized as skin-lightening agents to prevent hyperpigmentation, while astaxanthin, beta-carotene, hyaluronic acid, exopolysaccharides (EPS), dead sea mud, and salmon enzymes stand out for their anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and cellular-regenerative anti-aging properties. Nevertheless, technical and market constraints exist in commercializing these molecules, including taxonomic identification difficulties, sustainable raw material supply, ecological variations, and high production costs. Consequently, overcoming these bottlenecks highlights that the recovery of marine bioactive components and wastes holds strategic value for the future of the cosmetics industry.

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15 Haziran 2022

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